Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city is hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always shaped its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
